Summit Night

Horombo Hut (3705m)

The feeling was extreme, my feet tingled and were beginning to lose their sensation, my cheeks stung as the moisture struck my face, and burning sensation around my ears from the oxygen tubes. I have never experienced my hands being as cold as they were that moment I had lost sensation in my fingers. The sweat built up along my spine and my clothes felt wet. All I could see ahead of me was the silhouetted shadow of the person’s legs in from of me. It wasn't a good feeling, it’s hard to describe, I wanted to continue in one way but in another way no. Could I work through what I was feeling?  

Step after step, the steps seemed so small, I began to become disillusioned and disorientated, so dark was the night. The burning sensation intensified, we stopped for water and I remembered what we were told from the night before "make sure you clear your tubes of water or they will freeze". My water in hydra pack was already beginning to cool in the cold night’s air. We started to walk again, I began to feel worse, my body began to resist, weighted down in some way by force, sweat soaked my back underneath my rucksack. I began to wonder if I felt like this now how would I feel in an hour and the thought of sunrise being five hours away. I stopped and stepped out of line, trying to get my bearings, aware that the group was passing me by, words were spoken to me but they fell so distant for me to understand I just mumbled a response so distorted even I can't recall what I said. Attilio was by my side at this point and I had made my decision "I need to go down" I told him together we almost ran down to base camp the lights from the huts became visible, and then on to our camp. Shortly after I lay in my sleeping back almost fully clothed trying to re-gather my warmth, Still not really thinking clearly, but knowing for certain I had no regrets in my decision to turn back.

Day Four The Final Approach

Mawenzi Tarn Camp

Mawenzi Tarn Camp (4303m) to Kibo Hut (4730m) Day Four

I don't know what time it was when I awoke all I know is that it was 5 degrees in the tent and it didn't matter how uncomfortable I was I didn't want move from this warm place I was in. I could hear the bustle of the camp outside and knew there was no point in waiting. The cool air touched my face as I unzipped the tent and straightened by back I got my first glimpse of the morning the pool of water was frozen and glistened white in the morning light the sun was yet to make its appearance. My boots felt cold almost damp, I disliked having them outer tent all night, the sweat from the days walk and then leaving them to sit out in the cold all night. The morning coffee gave my hands some much needed warmth.

Mawenzi Tarn Camp Sunrise

I knew this was going to be a long day, after the acclimatization yesterday we all knew what laid before us, the long walk over the saddle. I think we all kept our thoughts to ourselves, I longed for a warm hot shower, I had never experienced my hands being the color they were now, it did not matter what I did to keep them clean the dirt and dust was beginning to get ground in. Every one gathered for the usual breakfast after which we packed up and began our days walk, ascending over the ridges which never seemed to end. The slow decent to the saddle ensued, once we reached the saddle it was like walking across a slightly uneven table top overlooking the clouds to the right. Slowly slowly nothing goes quick on the way up slow and steady, I was growing used to the weight of my pack not having my camera on my chest was quite luxury. Atilio lead us across the saddle. We walked in silence with our thoughts to ourselves, so many things I thought about one chain of thought lead to another and then to another. Stopping occasionally for photo opportunities, I loved the feeling of being above the clouds, it’s hard to describe a surreal picture so far away from my everyday life. The sun came and went with the passing clouds, the air was colder than I expected.

Ridges of Mawenzi

Down came the hail, so close we were but it felt so far away, visibility disappeared behind a veil of miniature grey rocks that hammered the hood of my rain jacket, cold wet wind swept through me leaving a chill that reached deep. The slow accent, the Kimbo Hut never seemed to get any closer, what appeared so close before had now almost disappeared behind a fog of grey hail. I pulled my hood up around my face which gave me protection from the pounding hail, all I wanted was to finally be there. Looking up I saw the huts and so many people, the camp was situated in a dip just sheltered from the base camp, our tents were already erected. I felt the cold down to my bones, all I wanted to do was curl up and get warm. Emotions ran high that afternoon and evening it was the first time in the days I had been there that I really missed home, the warmth of being around family, it was a lonely feeling being so far away from that heartwarming smile and that loving hug. I guess it’s only natural to feel emotional at 4730m. 

Day Three The Welcome Walk

Kikelewa Caves Camp (3679m) to Mawenzi Tarn Camp (4303m)  Day Three

Kikelewa Caves Camp

I was not quite sure what to expect when I stepped out of my tent, having arrived after dark the night before. What I saw was not what I expected the terrain was not as treacherous in day light as it was at night. 

 The sun was bright as it broke through the clouds, looking up we could see Mawenzi. Our destination for day three is Mawenzi Tarn Camp (4303m), this days walk was shorter to the previous day which was welcome.

Our walk began as always slow and steady as we approached the ridges of Mawenzi, our path was a gradual incline that took us around the gentler side of the mountain.

Mawenzi Tarn camp

As we crossed over the ridges Mawenzi Tran camp became visible as if the whole camp site was laid in a shallow bowl the mountain acting as the rim, smaller campsites scattered here and there. Situated to one side was a basic looking hut with a radio antenna. Its strange being in the clouds, it’s like experiencing bursts of heavy damp mist that travel around you, one minute visibility relatively clear and the next everything almost disappears. I was eager to see day fours challenge "The Saddle". 

Clouds around Mawenzi

The afternoon's acclimatization training was going to take us up a ridge to 4421m high, which weather permitting would give us a good view of the saddle and possibly Kimbo Hut. The zigzag path got steeper as walking turned to gentle climbing, the weather was not the best but what we saw gave us plenty to think about.

The Saddle Kilimanjaro

The saddle was vast it stretched for what appeared to be miles, across it laid a thin line almost string like, which was that path we were soon to take, this gave the scene a sense of perspective.

The evening drew in and the cooler air grew colder and damper, the temperature tonight was going to drop below freezing.